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Forbidden Journey: From Peking to Kashmir, by Ella K. Maillart
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A classic account of a trip through China during the golden age of travel
In 1935 Ella Maillart contemplated one of the most arduous journeys in the world: the "impossible journey" from Peking, then a part of Japanese-occupied China, through the distant province of Sinkiang (present day Tukestan), to Kashmir. Enlisting with newswriter Peter Fleming (with the caveat that his company remain tolerable), Maillart undertook a journey considered almost beyond imagination for any European and doubly so for a woman.
The trip promised hardships such as typhus and bandits, as well as the countless hazards surrounding the civil war between Chinese communists and Chiang Kai-shek's nationalists. Setting out with pockets full of Mexican money (the currency used in China at the time), Maillart encountered a way of life now lost, but one that then had gone unchanged for centuries.
Maillart describes it all with the sharp eye and unvarnished prose of a veteran reporter-the missionaries and rogues, parents binding daughters' feet with rags, the impatient Fleming lighting fires under stubborn camels. It's a hard road, not that Maillart cares. At all times she is a witty, always-enchanted guide-except when it comes to bureaucrats.
Forbidden Journey ranks among other travel narratives like Fleming's News from Tartary, (based on the same journey) and Robert Byron's The Road to Oxiana. But it is also a portrait of a fascinating woman, one of many women from the pre-WWII era who ignored convention and traveled in hidden lands. It remains a vivid account of its time and a classic of travel literature.
- Sales Rank: #709210 in Books
- Published on: 2003-02-05
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 8.25" h x .70" w x 5.25" l, .80 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 384 pages
About the Author
Ella Maillart was born in Switzerland in 1904. An Olympic athlete, actress, movie stuntwoman, and captain of the Swiss Ladies Hockey Team, Maillart also found time to travel widely in Asia. In 1939 she and her companion Annemarie Schwarzenbach drove from Switzerland to Afghanistan, a trip described in Maillart's book The Cruel Way (Beacon, 1987). Her other books include Turkestan Solo (Long Riders Guild, 2001). She died in 1997.
Most helpful customer reviews
6 of 7 people found the following review helpful.
Not worth the money
By Richard
This is a barebones edition that never should have been published. The original contains some 67 photographs, including a few very useful maps. They add immensely to the pleasure of reading Maillart's narrative. Aside from the cover, this edition contains none.
Much better to search out an independent bookseller through [...] and buy an earlier edition with the photographs in parallel with buying an earlier edition of Peter Fleming's travelogue for the same trip. Though both authors describe the facts of the travel from Beijing to India along the southern Silk Road route, their descriptions of their inter-personal interactions and among the people they encounter along the journey are very different and complementary.
8 of 11 people found the following review helpful.
Excellent.
By Ellie Lief
I read this book years ago while I was living in France and I left my copy there. I have often wished I still had it. It's doubly entertaining and informative to read with the Peter Fleming book.
I'd like to give you more details, but it's been so long, only the pleasure of the tale lingers.
6 of 9 people found the following review helpful.
A great classic of travel writing
By John Duncan
I knew about this book from reading Peter Fleming's account of the same journey (News from Tartary: An Epic Journey Across Central Asia), but it was much more recently that I was able to find a copy (in French: so although I hope I can give an accurate assessment of Ella Maillart's qualities as a writer, I can say nothing about the accuracy and readability of the translation into English). Anyway, if you've read Fleming's book read this as well, because it's very different, though based on the same facts; if not, then read both, for the same reason. If the version available lacks pictures and maps then that's a pity, but it's not a disaster (I don't agree with another reviewer who thought that the lack of these justified a one-star review), because the main reason for reading either book is the fascinating picture of China in the 1930s -- the period of very weak government from Nanking with large parts of the country virtually out of even weak government control, including most of the way from Pekin to India that Maillart and Fleming took. There was a very strong degree of Russian (Soviet) infiltration in western China, and the Chinese tended to think all western foreigners were Russian spies -- especially ones like Maillart who sometimes needed to hide the fact that she could speak Russian fluently.
Perhaps the most amazing aspect is that the expedition of seven months from Peking to Srinagar was successful, with so many things that could have gone wrong -- Maillart or her companion could have drowned while crossing a river; they could have fallen over a precipice; they could have died of starvation, thirst or disease; they could have been shot by rebels. Not only did none of these things happen, but the most likely disaster of all didn't happen either: they could have been turned around and forced to go back to Peking, possibly under arrest. They had to pass endless passport inspections and other controls, but although these caused many delays, they always managed to continue (though their Russian companions on the early part of the journey, whose presence had seemed almost essential for success, were less fortunate). Right up until the last control before reaching India they could have been stopped, and as they had no legal right to be where they were they needed to expect the worst. Their documents were in Chinese, but as many of the officials who stopped them didn't recognize the weak government in Nanking and many of them could not read Chinese that was no guarantee.
Maillart was fluent in Russian (very useful in western China), and Fleming could speak some Chinese, but they had little knowledge of the various other languages they needed, but somehow they managed. Maillart was also an expert sportswoman -- sailing, hockey and skiiing, none of which were useful accomplishments for travelling through China -- and although the whole story of her life suggests otherwise the impression one gets from reading her book, and Fleming's, is of someone of great competence and stability. They shared out the work in a way that is probably typical of man-woman teams: he did all the shooting and negotiating with the Chinese; she did the less exciting things like cooking, and repairing and washing clothes. Nonetheless, they managed to maintain a cordial relationship for seven months. As Fleming remarks (but she does not: he says much more about her, entirely complimentary, than she does about him), by all the standards of literature of the time (no less than today) during that time they should have ended up madly in love or hating one another, but apparently neither of those things happened.
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